Solothurn, the Swiss city that goes up to 11
Certain numbers are inextricably linked with certain cities, becoming almost magical for the locals. Such is the case with the Swiss city of Solothurn and the number 11.
Solothurn, capital of the canton of the same name, is Switzerland’s most beautiful Baroque city, with a historic centre dating back to the 16th century. Bisected by the River Aare, the former seat of the French embassy in Switzerland (from 1530 to 1792) is best known today for two festivals: the Solothurn Film DaysExternal link (in January) and the Solothurn Literature DaysExternal link (in May).
The history of the city of Solothurn, already known in Roman times, is strangely and closely linked to the number 11. Solothurn residents of all generations – the city’s population is just under 20,000 – like to refer to 11 as a magic or even sacred number. This unique relationship has deep – and slightly hazy – roots. No one in Solothurn can tell you why the number 11 is so important. Yet the number is still used and celebrated. So much so that this attachment to the number 11 has entered the list of living traditionsExternal link in Switzerland.
Like any good story, the first references to the number 11 come not from history but from legend. According to one tale, in the third century the two patron saints of the town, Urs and Viktor, served in the 11th Theban Legion, which was exterminated in Saint Maurice in the Valais under Diocletian’s orders because it refused to execute some Christians. The two escaped the massacre but were later found and beheaded in Salodurum (Solothurn).
At any rate, Solothurn was “going up to 11” well before a certain mock heavy metal bandExternal link.
The city’s Baroque cathedral, built in 1762 on the remains of an ancient church dating back to the 9th century, is dedicated to the two saints. It’s said that the master builder Gaetano Matteo Pisoni from Ascona was so fascinated by the almost magical atmosphere in the town based on the number 11 that he decided to adapt the construction of the cathedral to this number.
Thus the monumental staircase leading to the entrance gate of the cathedral consists of 33 steps. The bell tower measures 66 metres. Eleven bells hang from the tower. Enter the cathedral and you will find 11 altars that are all visible at the same time if you look from a specific point in the main aisle, namely the 11th black stone. The pews are arranged in rows of 11. The number of pipes of the great organ is divisible by 11. The construction of the cathedral lasted exactly 11 years, from 1762 to 1773.
The numbers of history
Solothurn, which had always been an ally of “primitive” Switzerland, joined the Confederation in 1481 as the 11th canton. Between 1344 and 1532, canton Solothurn was divided into 11 bailiwicks. Important in the Middle Ages, but also later, 11 guilds of arts and crafts were active in Solothurn. Even today, the urban landscape is still shaped by 11 churches, 11 towers and 11 fountains.
Speaking of fountains, while in every village fountains were where women washed their clothes – basically washtubs – nowhere in Switzerland are fountains as beautiful as in Solothurn. The wealth that flowed into the city from the French embassy is particularly visible, and most of the fountains were built in the 16th century. The only Swiss city to give Solothurn a run for its money regarding fountains is Bern – and even in the federal capital, there are 11 monumental fountains in the historic centre.
But what’s most astonishing is the clock that indicates “Solothurn time” with its dial, which marks only 11 hours and which, with its 11 bells, reproduces the unofficial anthem of the city (see the main photo). You will find the Solothurn Clock on the west façade of a branch of a major Swiss bank at Amthausplatz 1 (Schanzenstrasse side).
This attachment to the number 11 is not only found in history books. Even today, the number 11 is omnipresent in Solothurn: there are 11 museums that can be visited in the city, “Öufi” (11 in the local dialect) is the name of the beer brewed in Solothurn, and some “11-i Schokolade” chocolate is a must. The website of the tourist office lists the 11 most important events taking place in Solothurn and the 11 must-see attractions.
In the private sphere, it goes without saying that the most important birthday is the 11th (and all following multiples)!
This archive article was originally published on tvsvizzera.it
Edited by Samuel Jaberg. Adapted from Italian by Thomas Stephens
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