“Corti Drama”

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The Eiger North Wall, towering over 1,800 m Winkler

On August 3 Claudio Corti and Stefano Longhi of Italy began the climb of the North Wall, followed two days later by two Germans: Nothdurft and Mayer. The two teams struggled and joined up to continue the climb. Onlookers flocked to the Kleine Scheidegg to follow events. Winkler

The rope team faced increasing problems. Mountain climbers debated a rescue operation, but the locals were sceptical. On August 9 Longhi fell and could not be saved. He lay exposed to the cold. Not long afterwards Corti was hit by a rock. The Germans continued to try and fetch help. Winkler

A 50-strong international team of climbers started the arduous ascent on August 10. The actual rescue was to take place from the summit. Winkler

On the summit, the rescuers made ready for the arrival of material and the climbers. Winkler

On August 11, after an abseil of 300 metres, one of the rescuers reached the injured Corti, who was brought to the summit in a gruelling ascent. Thanks to international cooperation, it was the first time a climber had been rescued from the North Wall. Winkler

Another rescuer abseiled down to bring up Longhi, who had been trapped in the wall for three days and two nights. The weather turned bad and the rescue was delayed. Longhi died the following night. His body lay for two years in the wall. There was no trace of the two Germans. Winkler

In a break during the descent, Corti receives refreshment after days on the wall without food. Winkler

Difficult abseil work in a steep part of the rock. Winkler

Italian construction workers employed by the Jungfrau Railway show their relief at the successful rescue of their compatriot. Winkler

Corti with a picture of his Eiger partner Longhi. Allegations in the press that Corti was responsible for the death of his friend, and may have also played a part in the deaths of the two Germans, put him under great stress. Winkler

The bodies of Nothdurft and Mayer were found on September 22, 1961 on the Eiger's west flank, proving that Corti had nothing to do with the deaths of the two Germans. Winkler

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Death and Rescue at the Eiger, 1957-1961

Few mountain accidents have stirred so much emotion in Switzerland as the tragedy on the Eiger North Wall in 1957. Three climbers were killed but one was spectacularly rescued.

Daniel Anker and Rainer Rettner describe and comment on the media event of the day in an illustrated book entitled “Corti Drama” (AZ publishing house), accompanied by Albert Winkler’s photographs.